Design Context: Essay

Victoria Redmond
OUGD401 – CONTEXT OF PRACTICE

'Advertising doesn't sell things; all advertising does is change the way people think or feel' (Jeremy Bullmore). Evaluate this statement with reference to selected critical theories (past and present).

This essay will explore how the beauty industry effects the way men feel and think about them selves, and how they manipulate the consumer through unrealistic ideals. I will specifically focus on aftershave adverts to do this.

Judith Williamson discusses there is a connection between how we process all the information of an advert. We may see an advertisement for a car and how we translate that information, if someone had in mind a ‘green car’ the colour could signify eco friendliness, this can be any advert, to see a beautiful woman advertising perfume, it may make you feel that you too can look like her and smell that good. In other words advertisements do give us direct statements. She says that you can link certain people with products, that certain products have a meaning like flowers; they have become a symbol of love, which is a connection between people. The object speaks for itself.

People are viewed by what they buy in our materialistic society our social standing is based on what we buy as a consumer, from the latest technology and the car we drive. Judith discusses that advertising gives order to our lives, showing us what we actually desire so we know who we are. The products we buy makes us who we are that we have succeed in moving up the social ladder because we had the latest apple computer or a brand new car, these ideas are not true but we are made to feel this way. We all have that need to belong regardless of age it can be seen with young people who wear the ‘in’ shoes or the latest trend. Judith says that all media ‘speaks’ to us, it uses a language that is universal, we cant always explain exactly what is says that we ourselves, imagine what it would be like to possess/own that item, that they will be fulfilled with that product in their lives. We all need material goods anyway; the advertisers just give us the meaning to purchase them.

Judith Williamson discusses ‘The message’ she explains how a large part of advertising is ‘the message’ describing it as a secret. The concealed message is deceptive and often is untrue to get the consumer to purchase a certain product and get a sale at any cost. Behind many adverts companies falsify facts to entice the viewer making many adverts misleading.

People know what they are buying into even if they know it’s false they are still persuaded and influenced to buy the product. The power of covert advertising cannot only sell a product but can influence and affect the way we think.

Advertising is extremely manipulative when it comes to making a consumer want to buy a product, companies thrive off the associated elite stigma that their brand represents this then influences people to want to buy into that lifestyle. “The end goal of advertising is still a sale, but almost as important as the ability to persuade people to build a relationship with the brand” (Williams.E, 2012,P6) Advertising is everywhere, were constantly being bombarded with what societies ideal of a real man and the way they should look in order to be attractive. Men want to be appealing, look and feel good about themselves as much as women. They seek cosmetic goods such as perfume, make up and facial products to improve there appearance and make them feel good. Building a relationship with a brand is just as important to the advertiser as the sale. Therefore the customer will keep coming back and become accustomed to using that brand.

For advertisers to communicate a message, a certain brand will repeat the same signifying images that we have always known and we will immediately associate it in our minds. The Calvin Klein adverts always use a handsome male, with defined abs and chiselled features in their boxers. “Customers define themselves through brands they use. The branded clothes they wear, the cars they drive, the drinks they consume, university they attended, favorite spots to hang out, and so on.” (Mabunda,N.Smirnoff Vodka Marketing Manager). Consumers start to buy certain things to be like everyone else, trying so hard to be accepted into a group or a society. This ideal is presented to the male consumers making them question their own appearance, which changes the way men feel and think about themselves.

Another way of manipulating the consumer is to form a relationship with them and the brand, it’s important and it’s exactly what advertisers want. To make a consumer feel that the product is of some great importance to they’re lives and not just a consumerist desire. ‘We don’t ask consumers what they want. They don’t know. Instead we apply our brain power to what they need and will want and make sure we are there ready.’(Steel .J, 1988 ,P189)

Consumers are influenced to go out and buy a product with out them knowing that they want it. Advertising is a strong way of convincing the public that they need a certain product that isn’t a necessity. Younger people are more susceptible to go out and buy an aftershave, which has a designer label and is more fashionable because companies have advertised it into magazines and many types of social media. Some may argue that people buy the brand and not the product this is because brands have built up a reputation through years of advertising, good publicity and high quality design.

Over the years advertising has transformed from once being about the products aesthetics, to create an atmosphere for the product. The Dolce & Gabbana aftershave advert 2012 promotes the product by fantasising the whole idea of a glamorous lifestyle. The possibility that the consumer will look and feel like the model if they buy the aftershave. In Figure 1 the advert shows the a man leaning towards the camera showing confident body language, the consumer would be immediately attracted to this wanting have the confidence that is displayed in the image. The model also has a toned body, hardly any clothes and is surrounded by a beautiful landscape. Dolce and Gabanna have cleverly put together the advertisement Light Blue in a way in which it will make males feel inadequate and lack self esteem this makes the male consumer want to purchase the aftershave to be like the model in the advert. The image outweighs the perfume bottle, however it is associated with all these emotions that a consumer would like to possess. The advert proposes that this can all be achieved by one purchase when in reality it’s just a facade. ‘We are both the product and the consumer; we consume, by the product yet we are the product thus our lives become our own creations through buying; an identicate of different images of ourselves, created by different products. We become the artist who creates the face, the eyes, the lifestyle.’ (Williamson.J,1978, P70,) The quote suggests by buying the product the consumer becomes the product meaning we are walking advertisements for different brands, “thus our lives become our own creations through buying”- Judith Williamson. This clearly shows that advertising is not only about selling the product but influencing the audience on what they buy and how it’s not just what it looks like, but its what you think and feel about it, which then affects the public.

Another example of this is the Power aftershave by fifty cent. In fig 2 the advert portrays the rapper showing his abdominal muscles and is highly airbrushed. The advertisement not only promotes the aftershave but also shows the confidence and strength of a healthy alpha male. The language the advert uses such as ‘power’ evokes a sense of hierarchy and importance. Male consumers would look at this advert and hope to feel somewhat of the same importance that the entertainer does. The bottle for the aftershave used in the advertisement also embodies empowerment and strength, as the shape is structurally strong.

“What the advertisement clearly does is thus to signify to represent to us the object of desire. Since that object is the self, this means that, ensnaring/creating the subject through his or her exchange of signs, the advertisement is actually feeding off that subjects own desire for coherent and meaning in him or herself. – Everyone, everywhere, is born with this same desire for both coherence and individuality.” (Williamson.J,1978 ,PG60)This quote reveals advertisements represent people’s emotions and needs through the objects that they desire. This supports the idea that people crave individuality as well as rationality in the products they buy. The advertisement represents desire, from the male physique to the product name, the consumer will instantly appeal to the aftershave. The advertisement also directs you to ‘define your own’ which would make the consumer want to define and capture their own power. The aftershave is created by an A-list celebrity. The consumers would look up to 50 cent as somewhat of a role model. Stacy(1994)“ Argued that the meaning audiences place on celebrities in linked to a sense of escapism. The idea that an audience can dream or fantasise about being part of a lifestyle, that some celebrities are perceived to have.” Stacy 1994 ‘Slide Share’ [internet], Critical Perspectives, Available from<http://www.slideshare.net/kksmedia/celebrity-14191612> [Accessed 25/4/2013]

In comparison to my earlier examples this specific advertisement uses Ryan Reynolds in a sophisticated suit to promote Hugo Boss aftershave.(Fig 3) This gives the consumer the impression that the product will instantly give them success, or that they aspire to be like that. The advert suggests empowerment to the already successful business men of New York as well as the ordinary man.

“That’s what advertising has always been good at; when it was good it would influence culture. It would change people” (Bonner.D Chief Creative Officer AKQA, 2012 P7 ). An emotional response can have a profound effect on how we think and the choices we make. This advertisement forces males to reflect on them self and aspire to be a successful person. The advertisement specifically uses a backdrop of New York City to promote wealth, business and the ‘city of dreams’. Referring back to the quote adverts guide different cultures in the way they see places as well as products. For example people in the UK would see the advertisement and be influenced to travel so they may become what Ryan Reynolds signifies. Making people feel like they want to be a part of a fast pace evolving city.

Technology has changed and developed drastically over the past 50 years. It has allowed us to become more connected and is another gateway to consumers.

“As far as advertising is concerned things have always been simple and transparent the deal with consumers clear. All that has changed today are the means and the media of expression”(Babinet.R,2012, P9)Television is a huge part of advertising aftershave successfully, as programmes are now sponsored by many aftershaves males are more susceptible to the media. Company’s choose certain TV programmes and channels that represent their product and targeting there chosen audience.

It’s difficult to get away from advertisements whilst waking down a busy street, whether it’s a clothes shop, fast food or a makeup billboard they’re everywhere. Advertisers use social networking sites to promote their product and make it viral because they’re aware of how many viewers these sites have. Advertising has more of an impact on the Internet we are being constantly inundated by popups emails and spam, even whilst on clothing websites we are still being pressured to click on links that will take you further websites. Statistics show that there are approximately 1,319,872,109 people on the Internet daily. Gallup. A (2012) ‘Statistic Brain’[internet] , Global System , available from <http://www.statisticbrain.com/internet-statistics/> [Accessed 25/4/2013]

There’s a never-ending circle of ideals and expectations proposed to the male consumers. Seeing models wearing clothes that they find appealing makes them want to look like them. Visualizing themselves in the clothes. Even with, perfume, jewellery, cars and technology. “For an advertiser and his agency, there are two ways of getting noticed: one is to jostle and shove, to be persistent, even unsubtle and invasive. The advertiser who takes this path will quickly be deemed tiresome; to be avoided at all costs. The other is to prove that there was every good reason for the advertising to bother you’. (Babinet.R , 2012, P102) Advertisers that are persistent and invasive aren’t necessarily as successful as brands that subtly advertise their product. The subliminal messages hidden in their advertisements are what make people think and feel therefore effecting their decisions more than the brand that bombards them with information.

“Brands have discovered that they need to come up with increasingly sophisticated ways to encourage their audience to interact with them.” (Williams.E ,2012,P7.) In other words companies have to entice the audience rather than give them a picture and expect them to buy it. It would change people’s opinions. This makes people think about a life that they dream of. Advertistising has the power to change our minds to want and need. Brands need to connect with their audience so that they can change the way people think about the product for example. Sales assistants are asked to approach the buyers in a sophisticated way offering them a preview of the fragrance, this automatically changes the way the buyer thinks and feels. This could influence a purchase that was not intended to begin with.

Referring to my earlier example of the Hugo Boss advert this is a prime example of using sophistication to manipulate consumers. “Consumers behaviour is complex, and the decision to purchase a particular product or service can be influenced by a variety of factors” (Bunting.SC,1966, P31) Influence is specific to the individual it may include attitudes and beliefs and past experience. Product promotion and whether the product is easily available are examples of external influences. The consumer might buy a product because they are motivated by their own need for their particular lifestyle however advertising could motivate the consumer to change the way they think.

Companies don’t need to physically tell people about there products because advertising is hidden creatively everywhere.

“Anyone can look for fashion in a boutique or history in a museum. The creative explorer looks for history in a hardware store and fashion in an airport” (Pricken.M,2002 ,P189) Most advertisements are in your face trying to get your attention and pretty much showing you the product immediately whether it be a serious advertisement or a humorous one. Some advertisers are a lot more clever and creative, thinking outside the box to come up with the best way to keep you in engaged. The most popular and successful brands don’t feel the need to over power the consumer, therefore the successful aftershave advertisements only use a minimalistic features for example by using one model the focus is on the product itself. The advertisement reflects the style and scent of the aftershave itself colours and objects inform the viewer of what the smell evokes.

Therefore with the examples explored in this essay 'Advertising doesn't sell things; all advertising does is change the way people think or feel' - Jeremy Bullmore. It would conclude that his quote is correct. Advertising is everywhere with the fast moving economy and always emerging smart devices, there really is no getting away from the creative and visually engaging advertisements. With advertisements becoming more complex and people having a deeper understanding of contemporary advertising, they associate products with achieving a goal like buying the newest Mercedes, or the trendiest new bright/sporty model of car, we are being sold a lifestyle not just a product, as the new age creative teams put together more and more elaborate and clever advertising to match our consumer lifestyle this will continue. Our success is measured by what brand of clothing we wear, what aftershave we use and what car we drive. We are bombarded with the newest styles and latest designs; we strive to have it all. Advertisers just feed the desire.

Bibliography

Williams.E (2010) This is advertising, London : Laurence king publishing Ltd.

Nyimpini Mabunda(2012) ’Smart In Sights’ Emotional Branding In a Changing Marketplace. Avialble from - <http://www.smartinsights.com/online-brand-strategy/emotional-branding-means-customers-stay-loyal-for-the-long-haul/> [Accessed 25/4/2013]

Steel. J (1988) Truth,Lies & Advertising,Canada: By John Wiley & sons,Inc.

Williamson.J(1978) Decoding Advertisements, London: Marion Boyars Publishes LTD

Stacy (1994) ‘Slide Share’ [internet], Critical Perspectives, Available from<http://www.slideshare.net/kksmedia/celebrity-14191612> [Accessed 25/4/2013]

“That’s what advertising has always been good at; when it was good it would influence culture. It would change people”

Daniel Bonner, Chief Creative Officer AKQA

2012 P7

(Remi Baninet quote)

Williams.E (2010) This is advertising, London : Laurence king publishing Ltd.

(Remi Baninet quote)

Williams.E (2010) This is advertising, London : Laurence king publishing Ltd.

Gallup. A (2012) ‘Statistic Brain’[internet] , Global System , available from <http://www.statisticbrain.com/internet-statistics/> [Accessed 25/4/2013]

Bunting. SC (1996) Advertising, London: Hodder & Stoughton

Pricken. M (2002) Creative Advertising , LondonThames & Hudson