RESEARCH
For the research brief i decided to research into Print & Textiles & Pattern design. Im really interested in pattern design , and print and textiles is a very broad subject and i feel although i will be able to find a lot of interesting material.
I have chosen to go with the title ' A collection of Pattern Design '
I decide to start my research by looking at textile printing & pattern design
TEXTILE PRINTING
Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.
In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens can be used to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.
Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:
Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
The printing of a mordant in the desired pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color adheres only where the mordant was printed.
Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground.
Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.
Resist and discharge techniques were particularly fashionable in the 19th century, as were combination techniques in which indigo resist was used to create blue backgrounds prior to block-printing of other colours. Most modern industrialised printing uses direct printing techniques.
( Silk printing The colours and methods employed are the same as for wool, except that in the case of silk no preparation of the material is required before printing and the ordinary dry steaming is preferable to damp steaming.
Both acid and basic dyes play an important role in silk printing, which for the most part is confined to the production of articles for wearing apparel dress goods, handkerchiefs, scarves, articles for which bright colours are in demand. Alizarine and other mordant colours are mainly used, or ought to be, for any goods that have to resist repeated washings and prolonged exposure to light. In this case the silk frequently requires to be prepared in alizarine oil, after which it is treated in all respects like cotton steamed, washed and soaped the colours used being the same. )
Design for a hand woodblock printed textile, showing the complexity of the blocks used to make repeating patterns. Evenlode by William Morris, 1883.
Origins :
Woodblock printing is a technique for printing text, images or patterns used widely throughout East Asia and probably originating in China in antiquity as a method of printing on textiles and later paper. As a method of printing on cloth, the earliest surviving examples from China date to before 220.
Textile printing was known in Europe, via the Islamic world, from about the 12th century, and widely used. However, the European dyes tended to liquify, which restricted the use of printed patterns. Fairly large and ambitious designs were printed for decorative purposes such as wall-hangings and lectern-cloths, where this was less of a problem as they did not need washing. When paper became common, the technology was rapidly used on that for woodcut prints. Superior cloth was also imported from Islamic countries, but this was much more expensive.
The Incas of Peru, Chile and the Aztecs of Mexico also practiced textile printing previous to the Spanish Invasion in 1519; but owing to the lack of records before that date, it is impossible to say whether they discovered the art for themselves, or, in some way, learned its principles from the Asiatics.
During the later half of the 17th century the French brought directly by sea, from their colonies on the east coast of India, samples of Indian blue and white resist prints, and along with them, particulars of the processes by which they had been produced, which produced washable fabrics.
Technology:
Textile printing was introduced into England in 1676 by a French refugee who opened works, in that year, on the banks of the Thames near Richmond. Curiously enough this is the first print-works on record; [ This is an old story from a reference in the late 1800s but it has never been proven and is generally not believed to be the case any more.
As early as the 1630s, the East India Company was bringing in printed and plain cotton for the English market.
By the 1660s British printers and dyers were making their own printed cotton to sell at home, printing single colors on plain backgrounds; less colorful than the imported prints, but more to the taste of the British. Designs were also sent to India for their craftspeople to copy for export back to England.
Methods:
Hand block printing - This process, though considered by some to be the most artistic, is the earliest, simplest and slowest of all methods of printing.In this process, a design is drawn on, or transferred to, a prepared wooden block. A separate block is required for each distinct colour in the design.
Perrotine printing - The perrotine is a block-printing machine invented by Perrot of Rouen in 1834, and practically speaking is the only successful mechanical device ever introduced for this purpose. For some reason or other it has rarely been used in England, but its value was almost immediately recognized on the Continent, and although block printing of all sorts has been replaced to such an enormous extent by roller printing, the perrotine is still largely employed in French, German and Italian works.
Engraved copper plate printing - The printing of textiles from engraved copperplates was first practiced in the United Kingdom by Thomas Bell in 1770.
The presses first used were of the ordinary letterpress type, the engraved plate being fixed in the place of the type. In later improvements the well-known cylinder press was employed; the plate was inked mechanically and cleaned off by passing under a sharp blade of steel; and the cloth, instead of being laid on the plate, was passed round the pressure cylinder. The plate was raised into frictional contact with the cylinder and in passing under it transferred its ink to the cloth.
Roller printing , Cylinder printing , or machine printing -
This elegant and efficient process was patented and worked by Bell in 1785 only fifteen years after his application of the engraved plate to textiles. Bell's first patent was for a machine to print six colours at once, but, owing probably to its incomplete development, this was not immediately successful, although the principle of the method was shown to be practical by the printing of one colour with perfectly satisfactory results. The difficulty was to keep the six rollers, each carrying a portion of the pattern, in perfect register with each other.
Stencil printing -
The art of stenciling is not new. It has been applied to the decoration of textile fabrics from time immemorial by the Japanese, and, of late years, has found increasing employment in Europe for certain classes of decorative work on woven goods for furnishing purposes.The pattern is cut out of a sheet of stout paper or thin metal with a sharp-pointed knife, the uncut portions representing the part that is to be reserved or left uncoloured. The sheet is now laid on the material to be decorated and colour is brushed through its interstices.
Screen printing - Screen printing is by far the most used technology today. Two types exist: rotary screen printing and flat (bed) screen printing. A blade squeezes the printing paste through openings in the screen onto the fabric.
Digital textile printing - Digital textile printing, often referred to as direct to garment printing, DTG printing, and digital garment printing is a process of printing on textiles and garments using specialized or modified inkjet technology. Inkjet printing on fabric is also possible with an inkjet printer by using fabric sheets with a removable paper backing.
PATTERN DESIGN-
Any of the five senses may directly observe patterns. Conversely, abstract patterns in science, mathematics, or language may be observable only by analysis. Direct observation in practice means seeing visual patterns, which are widespread in nature and in art. Visual patterns in nature are oftenchaotic, never exactly repeating, and often involve fractals. Natural patterns include spirals, meanders, waves, foams, tilings, cracks, and those created by symmetries of rotation and reflection. Patterns have an underlying mathematical structure; indeed, mathematics can be seen as the search for regularities, and the output of any function is a mathematical pattern. Similarly in the sciences, theories explain and predict regularities in the world.
Tilings, such as these from Igreja de Campanhã, Porto,Portugal, are visual patterns used for decoration.
Nature provides examples of many kinds of pattern, including symmetries, trees and other structures with a fractal dimension, spirals, meanders, waves, foams, tilings, cracks and stripes.
In visual art, pattern consists in regularity which in some way "organizes surfaces or structures in a consistent, regular manner." At its simplest, a pattern in art may be a repeating shape in a painting, drawing, tapestry, ceramic tiling or carpet, but a pattern need not necessarily repeat exactly as long as it provides some form or organizing "skeleton" in the artwork. In mathematics, a tessellation is the tiling of a plane using one or more geometric shapes (which mathematicians call tiles), with no overlaps and no gaps.
Man-made pattern of 117 windows in a Commercial Mall in Lisbon, Portugal
Elaborate ceramic tiles at Topkapi Palace
Sciences & Maths
Mathematics is sometimes called the "Science of Pattern", in the sense of rules that can be applied wherever needed. For example, any sequence of numbers that may be modeled by a mathematical function can be considered a pattern. Mathematics can be taught as a collection of patterns.
Nature provides examples of many kinds of pattern, including symmetries, trees and other structures with a fractal dimension, spirals, meanders, waves, foams, tilings, cracks and stripes.
In visual art, pattern consists in regularity which in some way "organizes surfaces or structures in a consistent, regular manner." At its simplest, a pattern in art may be a repeating shape in a painting, drawing, tapestry, ceramic tiling or carpet, but a pattern need not necessarily repeat exactly as long as it provides some form or organizing "skeleton" in the artwork. In mathematics, a tessellation is the tiling of a plane using one or more geometric shapes (which mathematicians call tiles), with no overlaps and no gaps.
Man-made pattern of 117 windows in a Commercial Mall in Lisbon, Portugal
Elaborate ceramic tiles at Topkapi Palace
Sciences & Maths
Mathematics is sometimes called the "Science of Pattern", in the sense of rules that can be applied wherever needed. For example, any sequence of numbers that may be modeled by a mathematical function can be considered a pattern. Mathematics can be taught as a collection of patterns.
Fractals
Some mathematical rule-patterns can be visualised, and among these are those that explain patterns in nature including the mathematics of symmetry, waves, meanders, and fractals. Fractals are mathematical patterns that are scale invariant. This means that the shape of the pattern does not depend on how closely you look at it. Self-similarity is found in fractals. Examples of natural fractals are coast lines and tree shapes, which repeat their shape regardless of what magnification you view at. While self-similar patterns can appear indefinitely complex, the rules needed to describe or produce their formation can be simple (e.g. Lindenmayer systems describing tree shapes).
In pattern theory, devised by Ulf Grenander, mathematicians attempt to describe the world in terms of patterns. The goal is to lay out the world in a more computationally friendly manner.
In the broadest sense, any regularity that can be explained by a scientific theory is a pattern. As in mathematics, science can be taught as a set of patterns
The pattern is still popular in Iran and South and Central Asian countries. It is woven using gold or silver threads on silk or other high quality textiles for gifts, for weddings and special occasions. In Iran and Uzbekistan its use goes beyond clothing – paintings, jewelry, frescoes, curtains, tablecloths, quilts, carpets, garden landscaping, and pottery also sport the buta design. In Uzbekistan the most frequently found item featuring the design is the traditional doppi headdress.
Mandala (Sanskrit: मण्डल Maṇḍala, 'circle') is a spiritual and ritual symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism, representing the Universe.The basic form of most mandalas is a square with four gates containing a circle with a center point. Each gate is in the general shape of a T. Mandalas often exhibit radial balance.
The term is of Hindu origin. It appears in the Rig Veda as the name of the sections of the work, but is also used in other Indian religions, particularly Buddhism.
In various spiritual traditions, mandalas may be employed for focusing attention of aspirants and adepts, as a spiritual teaching tool, for establishing asacred space, and as an aid to meditation and trance induction.
In common use, mandala has become a generic term for any plan, chart or geometric pattern that represents the cosmos metaphysically or symbolically; a microcosm of the universe.
Tapestry is a form of textile art, traditionally woven on a vertical loom. However, it can also be woven on a floor loom as well. It is composed of two sets of interlaced threads, those running parallel to the length (called the warp) and those parallel to the width (called the weft); the warp threads are set up under tension on a loom, and the weft thread is passed back and forth across part or all of the warps. Tapestry is weft-faced weaving, in which all the warp threads are hidden in the completed work, unlike cloth weaving where both the warp and the weft threads may be visible. In tapestry weaving, weft yarns are typically discontinuous; the artisan interlaces each coloured weft back and forth in its own small pattern area. It is a plain weft-faced weave having weft threads of different colours worked over portions of the warp to form the design.
Most weavers use a naturally based warp thread such as linen or cotton. The weft threads are usually wool or cotton, but may include silk, gold, silver, or other alternatives.
One of the tapestries in the series The Hunt of the Unicorn: The Unicorn is Found, circa 1495-1505, the Cloisters, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City.
The Apocalypse Tapestry in theChâteau d'Angers, in Angers.
Other Tapestry :
DESIGNERS/PRINTMARKERS
Albers was born Annelise Else Frieda Fleischmann in Berlin of Jewish descent. Her mother was from an aristocratic family in the publishing industry and her father was a furnituremaker. Even in her childhood, she was intrigued by art and the visual world. She painted during her youth and studied under an impressionist from 1916 to 1919, but was very discouraged from continuing after a meeting with artist Oskar Kokoschka, who upon seeing a portrait of hers asked her sharply "Why do you paint?" She eventually decided to attend art school, even though the challenges for art students were often great and the living conditions harsh. Such a lifestyle sharply contrasted the affluent and comfortable living that she had been used to. Albers attended the Kunstgewerbeschule inHamburg for only two months in 1920, though eventually made her way to the Bauhaus at Weimar in April 1922.
Bridget Louise Riley (born 24 April 1931 in Norwood, London) is an English painter who is one of the foremost exponents of Op art.She currently lives and works in London, Cornwall, and France.
Cataract 3, 1967, PVA on canvas
This check print is a British icon. The beige and red check lining was first used in the 1920s to line the equally iconic Burberry trench coat. It has since become a status symbol of sorts. It now adorns a range of items from gumboots to scarves.
PUCCI SWIRLS
The swirling kaleidoscopic colours are what make this print so easily recognisable. A Pucci print can use as many as 16 colours in a single design! This print adorns a range of items from resort-wear to home décor. Pucci prints enjoy a revival every few years, making it a timeless classic
NATIVE AMERICAN PRINT
The Native American inspired prints are iconic of the Pendleton brand. While most commonly found on their woollen blankets, these prints can now be found on a range of items from dresses to purses. Hip clothing store Opening Ceremony recently collaborated with the brand, bringing the Pendleton print back into the fore of fashion.
LIBERTY PRINT
This print was first popularised by the Liberty & Co. department store in London. The liberty print is comprised of small, speckled flowers. The liberty print lawn dress made its debut in 1964. The dress was designed by The Ginger Group, which was founded by Mary Quant - who was the quintessential fashion designer of the 1960s. This floral print enjoys massive popularity to this day.
MISSONI PRINT -
The zig-zag design is the stand out feature of the Missoni print. The Missoni brand is most notable for its colourful knitwear, all of which feature a ‘flame dye’ effect. This effect is achieved by partly immersing the yarn in the dye to leave a white mark or allow the colour of the yarn to show through. The print was first created in the 1940s and gained popularity during the 1960s and 1970s.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN REPTILE PRINT
This print is the most recent addition to this list, but it has certainly made its mark. This vibrant reptile print design debuted as part of Alexander McQueen’s Sprint 2010 ready-to-wear collection. It appeared on dresses in a kaleidoscope of colours, as well as on death-defying runway shoes. While not for everyone’s tastes, this print certainly leaves an impression.
LOUIS VUITTON MONOGRAM
The Louis Vuitton monogram canvas is synonymous with the luxury brand. The print canvas is a signature feature of the brand’s range of leather goods. While the print was initially designed to deter counterfeits, it has largely been recorded that Louis Vuitton has become one of the most counterfeited brands on the market. Despite this, the brand has still managed to maintain luxury status.
Some mathematical rule-patterns can be visualised, and among these are those that explain patterns in nature including the mathematics of symmetry, waves, meanders, and fractals. Fractals are mathematical patterns that are scale invariant. This means that the shape of the pattern does not depend on how closely you look at it. Self-similarity is found in fractals. Examples of natural fractals are coast lines and tree shapes, which repeat their shape regardless of what magnification you view at. While self-similar patterns can appear indefinitely complex, the rules needed to describe or produce their formation can be simple (e.g. Lindenmayer systems describing tree shapes).
In pattern theory, devised by Ulf Grenander, mathematicians attempt to describe the world in terms of patterns. The goal is to lay out the world in a more computationally friendly manner.
In the broadest sense, any regularity that can be explained by a scientific theory is a pattern. As in mathematics, science can be taught as a set of patterns
PAISLEY PRINT
Paisley or Paisley pattern is a term in English for a design using the boteh or buta, a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Persian origin. Such designs became very popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post-Mughal versions of the design from British India, especially in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then imitated locally. The pattern is sometimes called "Persian pickles" by American traditionalists, especially quilt-makers, or "Welsh pears" in Welsh textiles as far back as 1888.
Paisley or Paisley pattern is a term in English for a design using the boteh or buta, a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Persian origin. Such designs became very popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post-Mughal versions of the design from British India, especially in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then imitated locally. The pattern is sometimes called "Persian pickles" by American traditionalists, especially quilt-makers, or "Welsh pears" in Welsh textiles as far back as 1888.
The pattern is still popular in Iran and South and Central Asian countries. It is woven using gold or silver threads on silk or other high quality textiles for gifts, for weddings and special occasions. In Iran and Uzbekistan its use goes beyond clothing – paintings, jewelry, frescoes, curtains, tablecloths, quilts, carpets, garden landscaping, and pottery also sport the buta design. In Uzbekistan the most frequently found item featuring the design is the traditional doppi headdress.
Imports from the East India Company in the first half of the 17th century made paisley and other Indian patterns popular, and the Company was unable to import enough to meet the demand. It was popular in the Baltic states between 1700 and 1800 and was thought to be used as a protective charm to ward off evil demons. However, in modern culture, Western youth have used it as a symbol of rebellion.
Local manufacturers in Marseilles began to mass-produce the patterns via early textile printing processes at 1640. England, circa 1670, and Holland, in 1678, soon followed.
Local manufacturers in Marseilles began to mass-produce the patterns via early textile printing processes at 1640. England, circa 1670, and Holland, in 1678, soon followed.
MANDALA
Mandala (Sanskrit: मण्डल Maṇḍala, 'circle') is a spiritual and ritual symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism, representing the Universe.The basic form of most mandalas is a square with four gates containing a circle with a center point. Each gate is in the general shape of a T. Mandalas often exhibit radial balance.
The term is of Hindu origin. It appears in the Rig Veda as the name of the sections of the work, but is also used in other Indian religions, particularly Buddhism.
In various spiritual traditions, mandalas may be employed for focusing attention of aspirants and adepts, as a spiritual teaching tool, for establishing asacred space, and as an aid to meditation and trance induction.
In common use, mandala has become a generic term for any plan, chart or geometric pattern that represents the cosmos metaphysically or symbolically; a microcosm of the universe.
A yantra is a two- or three-dimensional geometric composition used in sadhanas, or meditative rituals. It is thought to be the abode of the deity. Each yantra is unique and calls the deity into the presence of the practitioner through the elaborate symbolic geometric designs. According to one scholar, "Yantras function as revelatory symbols of cosmic truths and as instructional charts of the spiritual aspect of human experience.
TAPESTRY:
Most weavers use a naturally based warp thread such as linen or cotton. The weft threads are usually wool or cotton, but may include silk, gold, silver, or other alternatives.
One of the tapestries in the series The Hunt of the Unicorn: The Unicorn is Found, circa 1495-1505, the Cloisters, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City.
Other Tapestry :
Andy Gilmore:
Creates geometric pattern design
Anni Albers:
Artwork:
Albers worked primarily in textiles and, late in life, as a printmaker. She produced numerous designs in ink washes for her textiles, and occasionally experimented with jewelry. Her woven works include many wall hangings, curtains and bedspreads, mounted "pictorial" images, and mass-produced yard material. Her weavings are often constructed of both traditional and industrial materials, not hesitating to combine jute, paper, and cellophane, for instance, to startlingly sublime effect.
Phil Frost:
Phil frost creates abstract patterns
Bridget Riley :
Bridget Louise Riley (born 24 April 1931 in Norwood, London) is an English painter who is one of the foremost exponents of Op art.She currently lives and works in London, Cornwall, and France.
Riley's mature style, developed during the 1960s, was influenced by a number of sources.
It was during this time that Riley began to paint the black and white works for which she is best known. They present a great variety of geometric forms that produce sensations of movement or colour. In the early 1960s, her works were said to induce sensation in viewers as varied as seasick and sky diving. From 1961 to 1964 she worked with the contrast of black and white, occasionally introducing tonal scales of grey. Works in this style comprised her first 1962 solo show at Musgrave's Gallery One, as well as numerous subsequent shows.
Shadow Play, 1990, oil on canvas
In fashion, the pattern is a template, a technical two-dimensional tool used to create any number of identical garments. It can be considered as a means of translating from the drawing to the real garment.
Seven icon prints
BURBERRY CHECK
FASHION
HOUNDS TOOTH-
Houndstooth, hounds tooth check or hound's tooth (and similar spellings), also known as dogstooth, dogtooth or dog's tooth, is a duotone textile pattern characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes, often in black and white, although other colours are used. The classic houndstooth pattern is an example of a tessellation.
HOUNDS TOOTH-
Houndstooth, hounds tooth check or hound's tooth (and similar spellings), also known as dogstooth, dogtooth or dog's tooth, is a duotone textile pattern characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes, often in black and white, although other colours are used. The classic houndstooth pattern is an example of a tessellation.
Houndstooth checks originated in woven wool cloth of the Scottish Lowlands, but are now used in many other materials. The traditional houndstooth check is made with alternating bands of four dark and four light threads in both warp and weft/filling woven in a simple 2:2 twill, two over/two under the warp, advancing one thread each pass. In an early reference to houndstooth, De Pinna, a New York City–based men's and women's high-end clothier founded in 1885, included houndstooth checks along with gun club checks and Scotch plaids as part of its 1933 spring men's suits collection.
Patterns within Fashion
In fashion, the pattern is a template, a technical two-dimensional tool used to create any number of identical garments. It can be considered as a means of translating from the drawing to the real garment.
BURBERRY CHECK
This check print is a British icon. The beige and red check lining was first used in the 1920s to line the equally iconic Burberry trench coat. It has since become a status symbol of sorts. It now adorns a range of items from gumboots to scarves.
PUCCI SWIRLS
The swirling kaleidoscopic colours are what make this print so easily recognisable. A Pucci print can use as many as 16 colours in a single design! This print adorns a range of items from resort-wear to home décor. Pucci prints enjoy a revival every few years, making it a timeless classic
The Native American inspired prints are iconic of the Pendleton brand. While most commonly found on their woollen blankets, these prints can now be found on a range of items from dresses to purses. Hip clothing store Opening Ceremony recently collaborated with the brand, bringing the Pendleton print back into the fore of fashion.
LIBERTY PRINT
This print was first popularised by the Liberty & Co. department store in London. The liberty print is comprised of small, speckled flowers. The liberty print lawn dress made its debut in 1964. The dress was designed by The Ginger Group, which was founded by Mary Quant - who was the quintessential fashion designer of the 1960s. This floral print enjoys massive popularity to this day.
MISSONI PRINT -
The zig-zag design is the stand out feature of the Missoni print. The Missoni brand is most notable for its colourful knitwear, all of which feature a ‘flame dye’ effect. This effect is achieved by partly immersing the yarn in the dye to leave a white mark or allow the colour of the yarn to show through. The print was first created in the 1940s and gained popularity during the 1960s and 1970s.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN REPTILE PRINT
This print is the most recent addition to this list, but it has certainly made its mark. This vibrant reptile print design debuted as part of Alexander McQueen’s Sprint 2010 ready-to-wear collection. It appeared on dresses in a kaleidoscope of colours, as well as on death-defying runway shoes. While not for everyone’s tastes, this print certainly leaves an impression.
LOUIS VUITTON MONOGRAM
The Louis Vuitton monogram canvas is synonymous with the luxury brand. The print canvas is a signature feature of the brand’s range of leather goods. While the print was initially designed to deter counterfeits, it has largely been recorded that Louis Vuitton has become one of the most counterfeited brands on the market. Despite this, the brand has still managed to maintain luxury status.
Clothing pattern 2D - Printed onto trousers.
Different checks -
Tartan - Iconic pattern
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