These processes i want to research are things from my to do list - To start off my research i will look at step by step guide for the processes i am unsure about.
Spot Varnish -
spot varnish is handled like a 5th color separation in
addition to CMYK. That’s why creating spot varnish is similar to the appliance
of spot colors but there’s still a little difference. Keyword: over printing.
If you’re creating spot varnish for multiple elements we
recommend using a new layer (we call it “spot varnish”) and place all future
elements in it.
To create varnish choose the symbol left to the „Bin” or click
the drop-down menu in the right corner above and choose “New Color Swatch …”
The dialog box allows you to change several settings. Start with
changing the name to “spot varnish”, “varnish” or something like that to be
able to identify the spot varnish channel later.
Now change colour type from “Process” to “Spot”. That’s important
to create a new color channel
Using a signal colour as we did with 100% magenta. The colour is not important since varnish is transparent and it is just to remind you which elements get spot varnish in the end. Now determine this colour mode for all elements you want to have varnished and be careful to always apply 100% colour.
Next step is really important for production: Select all varnish elements and open “Attributes” via “Window” menu and set a checkmark at “Overprint Fill”.
That’s so important because it is a spot colour which
needs to be printed on a different layer, otherwise the color beneath would be
omitted. “Overprint Fill” makes sure that the layout is printed first and the
varnish will be added afterwards.
Tip: You can also highlight elements from your layout.
Just copy and insert them at the same place of the layout. Change the color
mode to spot varnish which you created earlier and it’s done.
Spot varnish examples -
Foiling -
What is Foil Stamping?
Foil stamping is a specialty printing process that uses heat, pressure, metal dies and foil film. The foil comes in rolls in a wide assortment of colors, finishes, and optical effects.
Tools needed (clockwise starting with the artwork):
- Artwork
- Carrier Board
- Heat Gun or Hairdryer
- Small Laminator
- Foil transfers
- Artwork
- Carrier Board
- Heat Gun or Hairdryer
- Small Laminator
- Foil transfers
Print, in pure black, the artwork you want to be foiled on to any paper that can go through a laser printer. With the tools I have the largest size I can make is 8 x 10 but I’ve never needed to foil anything larger than a few square inches anyway. If you live in a humid climate you may need to dry the paper. Any moisture in the paper will latch on to the foil and cause spotting. A heat gun will make quick work of this and a hairdryer will make much less quick work of this.
Place the artwork on the Carrier Board and then the foil on the artwork making sure that the dull side of the foil is touching the toner.
Make sure that the foil folds over the Carrier enough so that you can get a firm grip on it both top and bottom. This is to make sure that the foil doesn’t shift as it enters the laminator.
As the project enters the laminator you’ll feel it begin to pull it in. When this happens focus your attention on smoothing out the foil as it moves through.
It’s important to keep the foil taught so that no wrinkles are formed.
After the project comes out the other end of the laminator it’s going to be fairly hot but it won’t burn you (maybe). Next, peel back the foil to reveal your artwork.
Foiling examples -
Embossing debossing-
Debossing and embossing are two techniques used to imprint images onto paper, leather, or vinyl. In embossing, an image is pressed into the material so that the image raises from the surface. Debossing is the opposite of embossing; the area around the image is pressed so that the image is pushed down into the material rather than raised.
To emboss an image, a logo or artwork must be used as a template in order to cut a metal die and a corresponding counter-die. Dies are made of brass, copper, or magnesium. Brass dies are stronger and they will last longer with repeated use. They are used for multi-level and detailed designs, such as an imprint of a human face. Copper, though usually cheaper than brass, will not withstand as many impressions and it will not be as effective for multi-level printing. Magnesium is much weaker than brass and copper, and it is used one time for simple, single-level impressions.
To begin the embossing process, the material is fit between the two dies and a press and heat are used to squeeze the die imprint into the material. The result is a raised and exact copy of the logo or artwork. The embossed area is smooth because the heat and pressure act like an iron.
Embossing can be used with textiles, paper, and non-woven materials such as tissue paper, vinyl or leather padfolios. Color register embossed printing is embossing with the addition of colored ink, and blind embossing is embossing without the addition of ink. Foil stamping can be used in conjunction with embossing, and this process is called combination or combo stamping.
Embossing examples -
The deboss process is the same as that for embossing, except debossing raises the material around the die impression rather than raising the design area itself. Brass, copper, and magnesium dies are used in the debossing process as well.
There are several debossing techniques. A blind deboss is used with screen-printing or foil stamping. With the screen process, the art or design is first printed onto the material and then the outline of the print is debossed using a die exactly registered to the silk screen print. In foil stamping, the foil is transferred to the material using a special die and then the same die is used to deboss the area. Debossing is less complicated than embossing, and when done in conjunction with silk screen printing, it results in a colorful and more detailed rendering of artwork and lettering.
Debossing and embossing are preferred methods of imprinting onto materials such as leather or vinyl. For promotional gifts on the executive level, debossed and embossed leather or vinyl make elegant reproductions of a company logo or name.
Debossing examples -
Lino cut -
What is a Linocut ? Linocuts are very similar to woodcuts. It is a printing method using a sheet of linoleum, in which a subtractive cutting method is used to take away the parts of linoleum where you want to leave the white of the page, and keep the parts you want to be inked! In the result you have a linocut that can reproduce the same image over and over again.
- You start off with a plain block of linoleum or some other rubbery, cartable material.
- Next, you sketch what you’d like to carve onto the block in pencil or marker. When you’re planning your design, you need to bear in mind that everything will be mirrored when you print (especially important if you plan on including text! - you can also print off a design and trace it on to the lino.
- After that, you carve out your design using a special cutter. Remember that you’re carving out everything that you’d like to stay ink-free. If you’re working with black ink on white paper, that means that you carve out the white parts.
- Once you’re satisfied with your carving, you apply block-printing ink onto your carved block using a brayer, which is a sort of rubber paint roller.Finally, you lay a sheet of paper down onto the inky block and apply pressure to it to transfer the ink to the paper and make the print.
Lino cut examples -
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